Syria

Syria at a Glance

Capital City:
Damascus

Currency:
Syrian pound (S£)

Language:
Arabic and English spoken widely

International Telephone Code:
+963

ISBN-10: 1841621625

ISBN-13: 9781841621623

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Table of Contents

PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION

Chapter 1 Background Information
History, Government and politics, Judicial system, Economy, Geography and climate, Natural history and conservation, People, Arabic, language and transliteration, Education, Religion, Arabic culture and literature

Chapter 2 Practical Information
When to visit, Highlights, Suggested itineraries, Tour operators, Tourist information, Red tape, Foreign missions and associations in Damascus, Getting there and away, Health, Safety, Facilities for specific travellers, What to take, Weights and measures, Time, Money and banking, Getting around, Accommodation, Eating and drinking, Public Holidays and Festivals, Shopping and bargaining, Arts and entertainment, Media and communications, Business, Buying a property, Cultural etiquette, Giving something back

PART TWO THE GUIDE

Chapter 3 Dascus

Chapter 4 Christian villages of the Qalamoun Mountains

Chapter 5 Homs, Hama and the Southern Cities of the Dead

Chapter 6 Aleppo

Chapter 7 Aleppo to the Coast

Chapter 8 The Syrian Coast

Chapter 9 The Hawran and the Jebel Druze

Chapter 10 Palmyra and the Desert

Chapter 11 The Euphrates and the Desert

Appendix 1 Language

Appendix 2 Glossary

Appendix 3 Further Information

Index

About the Author

Diana Darke is an Oxford Arabist and Arabic-speaker with over 25 years’ experience of studying, living, working and travelling extensively throughout the Arab world. She has written several acclaimed books on the region and is the author of Bradt’s North Cyprus and co-author of the new Oman guide.

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Guidebook Updates

Notes from the Author

How it feels to be a foreign visitor in Syria, August 2006

02 August 06 'At Damascus' National Museum, the premier museum of Syria, there were still a handful of westerners looking round, and even an Italian tour group. Such conditions are of course perfect for those who do come, as you are virtually guaranteed whole rooms in the museum to yourself, especially good in the underground tomb of Yarhai from Palmyra and the synagogue from Doura Europos, where you might normally have to queue. It reminds me of how wonderful the Cairo National Museum was, shortly after a terrorist incident in Luxor, when most groups cancelled, and you could for once walk round all the Tutankhamun exhibits unencumbered by crowds.
The Cham Hotel group, Syria's premier 5 star chain with hotels all over the country, has experienced a lot of cancellations, and is concerned what the situation will be in September and October, normally high season months for western tourists. Those who do come can be assured of a friendly welcome, lower prices in the souq for souvenirs as times are lean, and uncrowded monuments - in short, the perfect time to come.'

01 August 06 'It feels less hot on the streets of Damascus than during the recent heat wave in London, and in the evenings a strong breeze gets up that can almost make you feel chilly when eating dinner up high on one of the terrace restaurants of the Old City. The views of Jebel Qassioun and the floodlit Umayyad Mosque at night from these roof terraces are stunningly beautiful.
The restaurants are still busy with local people and a few foreigners, most of whom are probably resident. One or two western tour groups are still in evidence, though many have cancelled, despite the fact the official government websites of European countries have not changed in their travel advice to Syria. The most unreported fact in the western media is the extent of Syrian humanitarian help to refugees crossing the Lebanese border. Schools have been reopened after shutting for the summer holidays, to give the poorer families somewhere to stay and many ordinary Syrian families are offering whatever help they can. The strain of all the extra people the country has had to accommodate must be considerable, with extra demands on water and electricity, as well as food.
In the streets the mood remains relaxed. Most shop owners have their TVs tuned permanently to Al Jazeera to follow unfolding developments and the images of the recent Israeli bombardment at Qana where so many children were killed, are given a lot more coverage than in the western media. People are deeply moved by the scenes, and support for Hizballah is estimated to run at about 70% of the population, if not more. Posters and pictures of Hassan Nasrallah are everywhere in the streets, and even many of Syria's Christian population (10% of the total population) support him and his stand against Israel. Nobody knows what will happen next, but all hope Syria stays out of the fighting.'

30 July 06 'Arriving at Damascus airport on Sunday 30 July was much as before, a small simple airport where it is unusual to have more than one flight being processed simultaneously. Procedures are over quickly, and within 20 minutes of getting off the plane, you are in a taxi speeding along the dual carriageway into the city, a journey that takes less than half an hour.
The mood also appears unchanged, surprisingly relaxed and certainly no obvious tension. I walked alone through the streets of the Old City late at night to visit a friend in his shop, and felt as safe as always, far safer than walking along after dark in the streets of London. The main difference is the subject of conversation. Everyone is talking about what is happening in Lebanon, and a remarkable number are actively involved in going to the border to help Lebanese refugees, find them somewhere to live, and give them food from their own houses. Pure humanitarian acts which do not get reported in the western media, though there is, to be fair, a reference to the high level of cooperation from the Syrians at the Lebanese border on the Foreign Office website. Travel advice from this FCO website remains unchanged. In essence there is no reason not to visit, and normal precautions apply about being vigilant, which frankly apply as much, if not more, in London.'

28 July 06 'Whilst the media is bursting with horrific stories and images of war-torn Lebanon, little is said directly about neighbouring Syria, though much is implied, most of it negative. As someone who has visited Syria regularly over the last three years on research trips for the new Bradt guide, and has even bought an 18th-century courtyard house in the UNESCO World Heritage site of Old Damascus, I can only say that Syria has always felt safe, remarkably safe. Rumours of mukhaabarat(security personnel) standing on every street corner turn out to be fanciful, and visitors invariably describe how, after the first day or two of looking over their shoulder expecting to see black leather-jacketed security men following them or gun-touting terrorist-types, they relax and start to enjoy the obvious charms of the country and its people.
Friends and contacts out there now tell me the country still feels safe. It is the nature of that part of the world to be unpredictable - part of its fascination - and no expert, however experienced and with however many contacts, would be foolish enough to predict what will happen tomorrow, the next day or next week. I will be there from Sunday to initiate restoration work on my house, so I will see for myself and report back.'
This innovative and illuminating guide is likely to change the way you think about this surprising country and its remarkably welcoming people. It provides detailed descriptions of Crusader castles, classical ruins, lost churches and the UNESCO World Heritage sites of Damascus and Aleppo.
Intriguing highlighted boxes throughout the text explain the complexities of early Islam and early Christianity which co-existed here, key regional personalities and the far-reaching inventions we owe to this Cradle of Civilisation. Arabic proverbs and literature are quoted to lend cultural depth and flavour, and there is background information from natural history and birdlife to banking and buying a property. In addition to extensive practical coverage of hotels from basic to luxury, restaurants, food and drink advice, health and safety, itineraries and getting around, there is also an Arabic language section with useful phrases and analysis of the Arabic alphabet and grammar structure.'

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