Ukraine

Ukraine

Author: Andrew Evans

3rd edition • APRIL 2010
448 PAGES • 16 PAGES OF COLOUR PHOTOS • 36 MAPS
ISBN: 978 1 84162 311 5

 

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Ukraine is something of an enigma for the visitor. The largest country in Europe, it remains one of the least visited, yet it has retained the rustic beauty of old-world eastern Europe, and its place names are heavy with historical significance: Kiev, Crimea, Sevastopol, Odessa, Chernobyl.


This fully updated third edition of Bradt's Ukraine guide keeps visitors up to speed with this rapidly evolving country. Covering everything from the best places for borsch to the best walks along the Black Sea – alongside an in-depth exploration of Ukraine's history, culture and natural beauty – this is the most comprehensive and practical guide available to a destination as yet undiscovered by the tourist crowds.


• The most up-to-date guide available to the Ukraine

• Covers the capital Kiev, elegant Lviv and the seaside Odessa

• Trekking, skiing and biking in the Carpathian mountains

• Accommodation and restaurant reviews for every size of wallet

• Author has lived and worked in Ukraine and continues to travel there regularly

Ukraine Map

Ukraine at a Glance

 

Capital City:
Kiev

 

Currency:
Hryvnia (UAH)

 

Language:
Ukrainian & Russian

 

International Telephone Code:
+380

 

 

ISBN-13: 9781841623115

 

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Reviews

'A comprehensive guide to the country.'

TNT Magazine


'Has a good section on Crimea.'

Sophie Bultler, The Sunday Telegraph

 

Reader Reviews

"Having done some travelling before and being familiar with the usual 'average tourist' style of travel guides available on the market I was pleasantly surprised by the refreshing style of Andrew Evans' writing. He evidently did some in-depth study and managed to capture the essence of the Ukrainian culture in a short space of the first part of the book. I particularly enjoyed a brief overview of the Ukraine's history...where I learnt some interesting facts about my country's past (although I studied this subject in Ukraine...for 7 years!). I also liked the way Andrew presented Ukrainians with some witty comments...and could not agree more with him about the importance of getting to know the local people wherever one is travelling to.
[The guide] provides concise information on pretty much all major destinations in Ukraine with some very practical advice on transport, accommodation etc. Being born in Odessa and living there for 20 years I enjoyed reading about my birthplace and hope that the positive outlook given by Andrew in his book will encourage many more tourists to visit this beautiful city.
I hope very much that with the increasing number of visitors to Ukraine the word will spread about the hidden corners of this East European country and that this will generate a much deserved positive coverage for Ukraine in the Western media. I have a high regard for your travel guide and see it as a pioneer in this area, paving the way for other publications about Ukraine. Thank you for playing such an important role."
Vyacheslav Gromlyuk

“Truly well written.”

Olga Davis, UK

 

“A great job!”

Peter Drosdowech, Canada

 

“A nice and useful travel companion.”

Mas Eliasar, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

 

"It is very interesting for me as a native Ukrainian to see Ukraine through the eyes of a foreigner. You have done tremendous job!" 

Yury Lyashko, Ukraine

 

"Just excellent. So detailed."

M Jones, Oxford, UK

 

'Absolutely first class! Thank you!' Christopher Owen - Cheshire

» submit a review

 

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Table of Contents

Introduction


PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION


Chapter 1 Background Information

Geography, Climate, Natural history and conservation, History, Government and administration, Economy, People, Language, Religion, Education, Culture


Chapter 2 Practical information

When to visit , Highlights , Suggested itineraries , Tour operators , Red tape , Embassies and consulates , Getting there and away , Health , Safety , What to take , Money , Budgeting , Getting around , Accommodation , Eating and drinking , Public holidays , Shopping , Arts and entertainment , Media and communications , Business , Travel culture in Ukraine , Cultural etiquette , Travelling positively


PART TWO THE GUIDE


Chapter 3 Kiev History , Getting there and away , Getting around , Local tour operators , Tourist information , Where to stay , Where to eat and drink , Entertainment and nightlife , Shopping , Other practicalities , What to see and do , Churches and holy sites , Museums and galleries , Parks , Outside Kiev


Chapter 4 Polissya

Getting around , Chernihiv , Chernobyl , Zhytomyr , Berdychiv


Chapter 5 Podillya

Getting around , Vinnytsya , Uman , Kamyanets-Podilsky , Khmelnytsky


Chapter 6 Galicia & Volhynia

History , Getting around , Lviv , Drohobych , Truskavets , Ternopil , Pochaïv , Volhynia , Lutsk , Rivne


Chapter 7 The Carpathians

The mountains , Flora and fauna , When to visit , Getting around , Tourist information , Ivano-Frankivsk , Yaremche , Carpathian National Nature Park , Tatariv , Vorokhta , Bukovel , The Chornohora range , Yasinya , Rakhiv , The Carpathian Biosphere Reserve , Verkhovyna , Kosiv , Sheshory , Kolomiya , The Gorgany range , Bukovina , Transcarpathia


Chapter 8 The Black Sea

Getting around , Odessa , Bilhorod-Dnistrovsky , The Dnistr and Danube delta , Mykolayiv , Kherson


Chapter 9 Crimea

History , The Autonomous Republic of Crimea , Simferopol , Yevpatoria , Bakhchisarai , Sevastopol , Balaclava , Cape Aiya , The south coast , Yalta , Yalta to Foros , Yalta to Alushta , Alushta , Demerdzhi , Feodosiya , Kerch


Chapter 10 The Dnepr

Getting around , Cherkassy , Kaniv , Kremenchuk , Kirovohrad , Dnepropetrovsk , Zaporizhzhya


Chapter 11 Donbas

History , Getting around , Donetsk , Slavyanogorsk , Mariupol , Luhansk


Chapter 12 Sloboda

Getting around , Kharkiv , Poltava , Mirgorod , Sumy


Appendix Language

Appendix Further Information

Index

Andrew Evans

About the Author

Andrew Evans is a writer with a significant background in Ukrainian culture, history and politics. He has lived in Ukraine and continues to travel there regularly.

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Guidebook Updates

Notes from the Author

"When I first set foot in Ukraine, there was no such country in my world atlas, let alone anything like a travel guide. My first impressions were stringent and few: the streets were too dark and the cars didn’t run. Public payphones were free (if they worked) and you could buy bread and milk with subway tokens. In winter there was no heat, and in summer, no water. One chose to eat cabbage, potatoes, bread and mustard, or nothing at all. I stayed two years and cried when I left.

Ten years later, hope has overcome despair and I have witnessed remarkable changes towards a secure society and better lifestyle for Ukrainians. Yet, it is the memory of the darker years that keeps me returning to this country again and again. Few countries boast a history so imminent as Ukraine’s, and every little place bears such deep human meaning. The timeless exercise of daily survival allows little room for show, and that is why I love the bunches of dogs that roam the streets, the bundled-up grandmothers selling pails of bruised apples and the silent white blocks of apartments lined up in a row.

Ukraine is a land made from the simplest ingredients: wheat fields and wide skies, green mountains and rippling rivers. The resilient Ukrainian people complete the panorama, so that the child pulling weeds in a potato patch matches the splendour of the lofty gold domes of so many painted cathedrals. When I consider the famous sites people know and visit in Europe, I can only think what they are missing in Ukraine: hidden monasteries, picturesque mountain villages in the Carpathians, the rocky shores and sunshine of Crimea, the inland beauty of the Ukrainian steppe and the most undisturbed bits of old-world eastern Europe.

While most of central Europe gets swept into the backpackers’ circuit, and the avant-garde start to ‘discover’ Russia, Ukraine remains a sort of secret, in-between no man’s land. There are still not enough beaten tracks near Ukraine to place it ‘off the beaten track’, but foreign tourists are scarce enough that you should feel special having made it this far. Ironically, Ukraine supports all the infrastructure needed for trouble-free travel: a stable hospitality industry has emerged and efficient trains, buses and planes allow travellers to go anywhere they choose with ease. In fact, the Ukrainian landscape engenders a mood for overland travel with its bustling stations and mesmerising views laid out between destinations. I have never experienced anything quite like that feeling of gazing out across the everlasting plain from a bus window, or staring at a white moon from a slow night train. Hopefully, many others will get to know the beauty and simplicity of this land that is ‘on the edge’. May all your adventures be happy and unusual. Schaslivoyi dorohy."

Additional update (12 April, 2005)


"And there’s never been a better time to visit Kiev! Not only is the city still reeling with the positive energy from Ukraine’s exuberant Orange Revolution, but the whole town is about to host Europe’s biggest party—the Eurovision Song Contest. In anticipation for the big event, and in a show of traditional Ukrainian hospitality, from May and through the summer, visas will not be required for citizens from the European Union, United States or Canada. It’s a great opportunity to come and see Kiev’s famous chestnut blossoms, visit a myriad of gold-domed churches and stroll though the historic streets of this beautiful, ancient city."