Table of Contents
Introduction
PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION
Chapter 1 Background Information
Geography, Climate, Natural history and
conservation, History, Government and
administration, Economy, People, Language,
Religion, Education, Culture
Chapter 2 Practical information
When to visit , Highlights , Suggested itineraries ,
Tour operators , Red tape , Embassies and
consulates , Getting there and away , Health ,
Safety , What to take , Money , Budgeting ,
Getting around , Accommodation , Eating and
drinking , Public holidays , Shopping , Arts and
entertainment , Media and communications ,
Business , Travel culture in Ukraine , Cultural
etiquette , Travelling positively
PART TWO THE GUIDE
Chapter 3 Kiev
History , Getting there and away , Getting
around , Local tour operators , Tourist
information , Where to stay , Where to eat and
drink , Entertainment and nightlife , Shopping ,
Other practicalities , What to see and do ,
Churches and holy sites , Museums and galleries ,
Parks , Outside Kiev
Chapter 4 Polissya
Getting around , Chernihiv , Chernobyl ,
Zhytomyr , Berdychiv
Chapter 5 Podillya
Getting around , Vinnytsya , Uman ,
Kamyanets-Podilsky , Khmelnytsky
Chapter 6 Galicia & Volhynia
History , Getting around , Lviv ,
Drohobych , Truskavets , Ternopil ,
Pochaïv , Volhynia , Lutsk , Rivne
Chapter 7 The Carpathians
The mountains , Flora and fauna , When to
visit , Getting around , Tourist information ,
Ivano-Frankivsk , Yaremche , Carpathian National
Nature Park , Tatariv , Vorokhta , Bukovel ,
The Chornohora range , Yasinya , Rakhiv , The
Carpathian Biosphere Reserve , Verkhovyna ,
Kosiv , Sheshory , Kolomiya , The Gorgany
range , Bukovina , Transcarpathia
Chapter 8 The Black Sea
Getting around , Odessa , Bilhorod-Dnistrovsky ,
The Dnistr and Danube delta , Mykolayiv ,
Kherson
Chapter 9 Crimea
History , The Autonomous Republic of Crimea ,
Simferopol , Yevpatoria , Bakhchisarai ,
Sevastopol , Balaclava , Cape Aiya , The south
coast , Yalta , Yalta to Foros , Yalta to
Alushta , Alushta , Demerdzhi , Feodosiya ,
Kerch
Chapter 10 The Dnepr
Getting around , Cherkassy , Kaniv ,
Kremenchuk , Kirovohrad , Dnepropetrovsk ,
Zaporizhzhya
Chapter 11 Donbas
History , Getting around , Donetsk ,
Slavyanogorsk , Mariupol , Luhansk
Chapter 12 Sloboda
Getting around , Kharkiv , Poltava ,
Mirgorod , Sumy
Appendix Language
Appendix Further Information
Index
Guidebook Updates
Notes from the Author
"When I first set foot in Ukraine, there was no such country in my world atlas, let alone anything like a travel guide. My first impressions were stringent and few: the streets were too dark and the cars didn’t run. Public payphones were free (if they worked) and you could buy bread and milk with subway tokens. In winter there was no heat, and in summer, no water. One chose to eat cabbage, potatoes, bread and mustard, or nothing at all. I stayed two years and cried when I left.
Ten years later, hope has overcome despair and I have witnessed remarkable changes towards a secure society and better lifestyle for Ukrainians. Yet, it is the memory of the darker years that keeps me returning to this country again and again. Few countries boast a history so imminent as Ukraine’s, and every little place bears such deep human meaning. The timeless exercise of daily survival allows little room for show, and that is why I love the bunches of dogs that roam the streets, the bundled-up grandmothers selling pails of bruised apples and the silent white blocks of apartments lined up in a row.
Ukraine is a land made from the simplest ingredients: wheat fields and wide skies, green mountains and rippling rivers. The resilient Ukrainian people complete the panorama, so that the child pulling weeds in a potato patch matches the splendour of the lofty gold domes of so many painted cathedrals. When I consider the famous sites people know and visit in Europe, I can only think what they are missing in Ukraine: hidden monasteries, picturesque mountain villages in the Carpathians, the rocky shores and sunshine of Crimea, the inland beauty of the Ukrainian steppe and the most undisturbed bits of old-world eastern Europe.
While most of central Europe gets swept into the backpackers’ circuit, and the avant-garde start to ‘discover’ Russia, Ukraine remains a sort of secret, in-between no man’s land. There are still not enough beaten tracks near Ukraine to place it ‘off the beaten track’, but foreign tourists are scarce enough that you should feel special having made it this far. Ironically, Ukraine supports all the infrastructure needed for trouble-free travel: a stable hospitality industry has emerged and efficient trains, buses and planes allow travellers to go anywhere they choose with ease. In fact, the Ukrainian landscape engenders a mood for overland travel with its bustling stations and mesmerising views laid out between destinations. I have never experienced anything quite like that feeling of gazing out across the everlasting plain from a bus window, or staring at a white moon from a slow night train. Hopefully, many others will get to know the beauty and simplicity of this land that is ‘on the edge’. May all your adventures be happy and unusual. Schaslivoyi dorohy."
Additional update (12 April, 2005)
"And there’s never been a better time to visit Kiev! Not only is the city still reeling with the positive energy from Ukraine’s exuberant Orange Revolution, but the whole town is about to host Europe’s biggest party—the Eurovision Song Contest. In anticipation for the big event, and in a show of traditional Ukrainian hospitality, from May and through the summer, visas will not be required for citizens from the European Union, United States or Canada. It’s a great opportunity to come and see Kiev’s famous chestnut blossoms, visit a myriad of gold-domed churches and stroll though the historic streets of this beautiful, ancient city."