by Tim Burford
Its name derives from Strüzel, the cake now known as Stollen, and its highpoint is the Stollenfest, held on the Saturday before the second Sunday of Advent, when a giant Stollen, at least three tonnes in weight, is taken by carriage from the Zwinger to the Altmarkt, accompanied by the city's bakers and pastry-makers, and by chimney sweeps, soldiers in 18th-century uniforms and brass bands. It is then cut by the Master Baker and the Stollenmädchen or Stollen maiden, a beauty queen who works in one of the city's bakeries, and divided up and sold for charity. The giant Stollen is of course cut with the giant Stollenknife, 1.2m long, a porcelain-handled replica of one made for August the Strong in 1730.
It may seem paradoxical to say that a market isn't commercial, but most people are here to eat, drink and have a good time with friends. Stalls sell Christmas-tree ornaments and other handicrafts, but nothing's very expensive and trashy plastic products are simply not allowed.
The tradition of hand-carving wooden ornaments in the Erzgebirge (Ore Mountains) dates from the Peasants' War of 1524–25, when many miners lost their jobs. Among the most typical pieces are nutcrackers (painted with a red jacket like a soldier), the Räuchermann (Smoking Man, with smoke from a hidden incense candle emerging through his pipe) and the Schwibbogen, an arch-like candle-holder seen in the window of just about every Dresden home during Advent.
Rather larger are the candle pyramids, two- or three-tier tapering towers, with the heat from the candles driving a rotor to turn each tier with its carved figures. Normally these are about half a metre high, but you'll see some bigger ones, notably the world's tallest, at the centre of the Altmarkt, which is 14m high.
Other products include indigo-dyed textiles and ceramics from Lusatia, lace from Plauen, advent stars from Herrnhut and glass tree ornaments from Lauscha.
|
 |
 |
|
» take a Bradt City Guide to the Christmas markets
|
